Welcome! I hope you’re excited to learn more about how I got started with 3D printing and what’s worked and not worked for me. First of all, my 3D printer is an Ender 3 V3 SE as shown in the featured picture. I got it on sale with 2 rolls of Creality Hyper Series PLA (black/white). I briefly switched out the extruder hood for 3D printed parts, but when that started to warp it went sideways. What I’ll talk about is print strategies, possible upgrades, slicer settings, and how to actually get a good first layer.
Print Strategies
First, start by printing the file that comes with your printer and check if the default speed set by the machine gives acceptable quality. If not, reduce the speed until you are satisfied with the quality. Next, pay attention to the nozzle temperature. Each filament has an optimal printing temperature, so adjust the temperature within the recommended range. For PLA, a temperature of 190°C is reliable, but you can conduct a temperature tower test to find the best temperature for your specific printer. Additionally, most filaments benefit from a heated bed. While PLA can be printed without a heated bed, using one usually yields better results. Set the bed temperature to around 60°C, but feel free to experiment with different temperatures. If you don’t have a heated bed, you can find tips for improving adhesion below.
Possible Upgrades
It’s time for some upgrades! This, for me, is the most fun part of 3D printing. My first upgrade was a fan shroud as referenced in the intro. As mentioned earlier, since it was PLA, it warped pretty badly and there was basically no point to it. If I were to do it again, I would make sure it’s in PETG to prevent the same issue. My next upgrade is an essential one if you don’t get a decent one with your printer: a new build plate! The SE has a stock PC (Polycarbonate) spring steel plate which works decently well, but PEI is the way to go. Scroll to the last section for more on this. Operating systems are pretty important when printing. Marlin is a pretty standard printer OS and works well on my Ender, but Klipper kind of outperforms it. To run it, you need a decent amount of processing power, which is great for a Raspberry Pi. If you’re wondering how to do this, there are numerous tutorials. Another option is a specialized Klipper pad which is sold by some companies like Creality to connect to your printer and act as the main screen and processor instead of the stock stuff. This is an easy solution, but MUCH more expensive than just springing for a way cheaper Raspberry Pi and doing it yourself. More affordable, but more complicated, is that option.
Slicer Settings
When preparing files for 3D printing, a slicer is necessary. Slicer settings are crucial for preparing high-quality prints. Common slicers include Cura, Prusaslicer, and Bambu Studio. I use Cura and find it to be quite good. In my opinion, the most important slicer settings are z-seam, supports, layer height, and infill. The z-seam refers to the point where the printer completes a layer and needs to start a new one without overlapping. This can lead to blobs or under-extrusion, creating a seam. Slicers like Cura offer features to specify the z-seam placement, such as in the corner, spread out (resulting in a pockmarked appearance), or hidden in the best spot. Supports are an essential setting that automatically activates for around a 45-degree overhang on your print file.
The First Layer
Now that you understand your printer and how to prepare the files, it’s time to focus on achieving a good first layer when you start printing. The first layer is crucial; if it’s not done correctly, it can lead to problems such as peeling, warping, or the print popping off entirely. My method for securing the first layer is to use a glue stick. I think the best brand is Elmer’s Disappearing Purple, though I’ve heard that Amazon Basics and other brands work just as well. When applying the glue, coat the surface adequately while ensuring it can be easily removed later. I like to begin the printing process, watch the outline form, then pause, apply the glue, and start the print again. Once printing is complete, I take the plate to the sink, wash it under running water, and scrub off the glue with my fingers. This method works well for me, but I welcome any suggestions for better techniques!
Conclusion
In conclusion, diving into the world of slicer settings, first layers, and printer upgrades can feel like trying to decipher hieroglyphics while juggling flaming chainsaws. But fear not! With a little patience and some trial and error, you’ll soon be printing masterpieces instead of spaghetti piles. Remember, the first layer is like the foundation of a house—if it’s a mess, you might find yourself living in a “leaning tower of print.” So, keep fine-tuning those settings, upgrade when you can, and don’t hesitate to talk sweetly to your printer (they do have feelings, you know). Happy printing, and may your layers be perfectly bonded and your prints free of catastrophic failures!
- Images from Pixabay
- Featured image photo by Jakub Żerdzicki on Unsplash
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